#114: Learn to Surf

In a way, saying I have accomplished this isn't really accurate as I haven't really mastered surfing in any capacity. In reality, I am terrible. I am not a naturally gifted surfer that can just pop up and read the water and find the perfect wave. But that is alright, because I am sure that I have some other talent that I will discover someday that will make up for my lack of surf skills.

I first tried surfing when in Hawaii with my family when I was 12. Of course when you are so young it is a lot easier to do those sort of things because you are so light you can just pop up and you are good to go. This time was a little most difficult as the waves were much bigger and less forgiving than they are in Hawaii. I went to Byron Bay for a quick get away from Sydney last weekend. It was a short flight and yet seemed to be a different world. I was surrounded by hand painted vans, dreadlocks, barefoot feet and ukulele's. It was a beautifully perfect little town that I felt right at home in.

My hostel provided us with bikes, body boards and surf boards and was right next to a perfect white sand beach. The sand was so bright and squeaked beneath our feet.  I still am not sure what makes the sand squeak, but it is wildly entertaining. We tried surfing for a few hours but spent most of the time trying to paddle out and avoid some of the monster waves. But overall it was really relaxing and it was nice to be outside in the cool water. The sunburn at the end of the day wasn't as nice though but it seems no matter how many layers I put on I still get burned.

Being that I am now living in Australia it makes sense that I should keep learning in order to truly fit into the Australian stereotype. The area I live in, the Northern Beaches is known for having amazing surfing. It is such a beautiful and peaceful sport that it would be amazing to be able to do.